Anza Borrego Part VII - Helicopters & Humvees

Day 7 began like each preceding morning: cold, dirty and hungry. Except now we (more like me) had a nice sunburn (i.e., perfect example of a farmer tan) from the Calcite Mine hike. Eager to catch up on the time lost to the snow and rain, Analee took the helm and we set off on our busiest day yet. Hold onto your hats, lots to talk about!

Sticking true to our belief that Badlands are better enjoyed from afar than from within, we drove up a wash to the Fish Creek Badlands Overlook. After what seemed like miles of winding through ever narrowing canyons, we almost ran head on into three people cruising through on dirt bikes. The dirt bikes were an omen as to how tight this canyon became. As we twisted on, Analee finally had enough of switch backing through the cramped remote canyon. Instead to driving all the way to the overlook, we decided to climb the mud caked walls and make our own overlook. The view was beautiful, but no different than from the day before. A forest is a forest, and a badland is a badland.

Next we backtracked to the Mesquite Oasis, which turned out to be several brown mesquite trees lining a fault…exciting. Further down the wash we found the old Palm Spring Oasis, which was a watering hole on the old Overland Stagecoach Route. All that remains are several palms and a small pond (oddly, the pond had a pump float ball in it to prevent overflows…like there is ever enough water out there for something to overflow). The pond still had its ancient pupfish (1 to 2 inches in length), which are remnants species from millions of years ago.

Not learning our lesson, we then ventured into the Arroyo Hueso (Bone Wash), which runs through the Badlands. Not much happened here, aside from mud, of course, and our first coyote sighting. We would have had a picture of the coyote, except I’m a spaz and am incapable of using digital cameras. The next turn off was the Arroyo Tapiado, another wash in the badlands…I insisted that we go up this wash because 10 plus years ago, I found a huge mudcave that I thought my claustrophobic girlfriend would enjoy (sometimes I am completely oblivious to the world). By the way, hearing a Southern Belle say the word Tapiado is a treat... TAP-EYYYE-AAAH=DOUGH (love you sweetie!).

Arroyo Tapiado Mud Cave

After much driving and Analee constantly checking up on my GPS navigational skills, we finally made it to the gaping entrance to the Tapiado Mud Cave. Surprisingly, Analee followed me whole-heartedly into the cave, but within 100 feet, I noticed that something was not as I remembered from 10 years ago. As soon as we entered the cave, we had to scramble up about 30 feet of debris. Yet, I distinctly remember the entrance being a ground level and opening into a large, cool cavern. Looking down, I noticed some large, black pockets where sand was seeping. Turns out, the cave had collapsed since I had first visited! Hearing this, Analee was a blur of dust running out of the cavern, while I was slowly plodding my way out. As I neared the exit, I could hear Analee imploring me to get out. Once out, I could see steady streams of sand falling around the cave. I guess the recent rains made the area a touch unsteady…

Finally done with Badlands (not really, Part VIII will show I’m a glutton for punishment), we went to the Canyon Sin Nombre (i.e., Canyon Without a Name). This canyon is a geological wonder, and Analee was salivating at a chance to see its treasures (For further information regarding the geology of Canyon Sin Nombre, please contact Analee Harris a.k.a. the geo-nerd, because to me a rock is just a big piece of sand…it was pretty though).

Canyon Sin Nombre Geology at its Finest

As we entered Canyon Sin Nombre, we both sighted a strange cactus on top of a nearby hill. Perplexed, we used the camera to zoom in on the weird shape, but we could still not make out the identity of this alien form. With the lens zoomed to the max, Analee was able to snap a picture. We then zoomed in 8 more times to finally determine that our mysterious cactus was in fact…a Border Patrol Agent looking at us through his binoculars! While we marveled at this picture, a white Humvee came barreling around the corner towards us. It appeared that we sparked the Patrolmen’s interest as well. Soon we had three agents drive up and give us the “rigorous interrogation treatment.” After a howdy and a wave, they drove off satisfied that we weren’t smugglers or illegals. Apparently two people who look like Swedes who fell asleep under heat lamps don’t cause much alarm…Two border patrol incidents down, several more to go.

That's No Cactus...

Safely out of the canyon, which required a skillful drive up a steep, sandy slope by Daredevil Harris, we headed to Mountain Palm Canyon. As the name would imply, this area is a protected mountain valley with about a hundred palms in several groves. As a child, this hike was a low point in the Thornburg Family adventures through Anza Borrego, but as an adult I was amazed. After a leisurely 1-mile hike, we entered a massive palm grove with approximately 50 trees, and a large oasis pond. It felt as if we were transported to the Amazon rain forest. There were thousands of birds flitting about, and squirrels everywhere. Squirrels in the desert, very surreal.

Mountain Palm Canyon

Unfortunately, we were not alone in this desert oasis, as we had to share it with fellow campers from Agua Caliente. One of these campers being a hot pool regular, who liked to wear a v-neck one piece when swimming. Did I mention that the bottom of the V was below her belly button, and that the lady was at least 60?!? Analee was under the impression that she was showing off her new “assets.” They did seem to defy gravity.

Just Listen!

Once rested in the cool shade, we, make that I, decided to lead us off on the Torote Bowl hike. Torote is the Spanish word for an elephant tree, and an elephant tree is a large trunked (forgive the pun) shrub. Sort of like a bonsai tree on steroids. Sadly, the Torote Bowl is one of the few places left in the world to see this endangered tree. However, I can gladly say that this species will survive because to get to the Torote Bowl one must be part mountain goat! The hike was steep and remote enough to keep Analee resting on a rock about ¾ of the way up, while she kept an eye on me climbing the remainder of the way. When I reached the top I was treated to an expansive bowl/crater full of Torotes cupping the valley below. Definitely a Kodak moment (of course, I forgot the camera).

Eventually, we ambled back to the Trailblazer and continued our marathon day in Indian Gorge. Heading through the gorge, Analee became nervous about road conditions, as large, protruding rocks surfaced in the wash. Soon this fears were allayed when we say a Honda Civic hatchback parked on the side of a trail. Heck, those cars have 2 inches of clearance. We were worried for nothing!

As the gorge opened up into two wide forked valleys, there was a large boulder on our left. As Analee put it, “That’s one big-ass rock!” This boulder showed signs of previous inhabitants (i.e., smoke stains, morteros, etc.), and was approximately the size of a singlewide trailer. A big-ass rock indeed. Encouraged by signs of inhabitance, we sped down (actually, we drove almost 2000 feet up on a long, gradual incline) the South Indian Valley keeping a keen eye out for more caves. Ultimately, the road ended at another palm oasis, one I’d never heard of, and more signs of past Indian life and prints of the four-legged variety.

Big Ass Rock Indeed

After poking around the oasis, we headed down and then up into the North Indian Valley, which yet again ended in a hidden palm oasis with more signs of past life. While Analee bounced up the trail, we soon felt a thump thump thump thump echoing off the canyon walls and reverberating in our chests. Before I could do anything, I was literally caught with my pants down as a two military helicopters (Sea Stallions, I think) rose over the mountains. They did several maneuvers through the valley, probably took pictures of us, and then turned towards the setting sun. It was a picturesque ending to a beautiful day.

UP NEXT: Part VIII - Thank God for GPS